There are many reasons for liking cheese. One of them has to be the deliciousness of melted cheese, whether on its own or mixed into a specific dish.

Fontina dop is a cheese from the Aosta valley in Northern Italy, near the alps. It’s claim to fame is it’s meltability, making it the prime ingredient for Fonduta (Italian Fondue) and is used in the dish Fonduta alla Valdostana (Fontina mixed together with milk, eggs and truffles).

Where it all began

It is believed that Fontina cheese has been made in this Northern region of Italy since at least the 12th century. Of course, in those days it was just the cheese they made and was probably simply known as Caseus (from Latin, meaning simply cow’s milk cheese).

There are some references over time to a cheese that sounds like Fontina. For example, it is mentioned in the 1477 edition of Summa Lacticinorum, a work by an Italian doctor and is depicted in a 1480 painting. 

The actual name Fontina begins to appear though only in the 1700’s. Here it is seen in the shopping lists of monks!

The meaning of the name is debated. It could come from the name of a hamlet, Fontin, or a village, Fontinaz or even from a 13th century surname, de Funtina. It might also be derived from the old French words Fontis or Fondis, which were to do with melting. In Italian, Fondente is a word in the same vein (and for those English speakers among us, there’s also fondant icing!).
In any case, Fontina Val d’Aosta (Fontina from the Aosta valley) is the authentic original Fontina cheese.

What’s in a name

There are a number of other cheeses with names similar to Fontina. Fontella, Fontinella, and Fontal can all be found. Some of these derivative cheeses might be similar and of a good quality, however Fontina Val d’Aosta cheese has a special status which guarantees a quality product.
In 1955 it was awarded a DOC (denominazione di origine controllata – controlled designation of origin) by the Italaian government. In other words, it was recognized as specific product produced in a certain way and area of Italy.

Not only this, but in 1995 the European Union awarded it a PDO (Protected designation of origin – otherwise known as DOP in Italian hence the name Fontina dop). This means that in the EU only cheeses made in a particular area of Italy and in a specially monitored way can be labelled Fontina. This is enforced by the Fontina Consortium, which is then, if you like, an organization protecting the quality of Fontina Val d’Aosta cheese and promoting its sale and consumption.

The bottom line is that there are many would be Fontina style cheeses, but only one that is produced in a controlled way, using time honoured techniques. When buying Fontina cheese, its best to check for a label or other guarantee that it is authentic PDO Fontina from the Val d’Aosta.

How it comes to be

This all being said, how is Fontina cheese actually made? Well, as with all cheese, it starts with milk!

In the case of Fontina, cow’s milk is used and only milk from one cow milking. According to the aforementioned PDO rules, the milk must be raw whole milk (i.e. not pasteurized or skimmed) from the Valdostana breed of cattle, which can traditionally be found in the d’aosta valley.
The first stage of all cheese manufacture is about separating the solid part of the milk from the liquid. The solid part, mainly containing the protein casein, can then be processed to form various different cheeses as indeed can, in some cases, the liquid part.

Separation is caused naturally by increasing the milk’s pH (the reason why spoilt milk starts to go lumpy and smelly!). By chance, in the past people discovered an enzyme called rennet, which also causes milk separation.

In order to produce Fontina, some bacteria are added to the milk, which increase pH and can be useful in the later ripening process. The milk is then heated and rennet added in liquid form. After around 45 minutes, a viscous gel is formed. This gel is cut into small, corn kernel sized pieces. This results in moisture being expelled from the solid cheese protein (known as curd).

After further heating, the solid cheese curd is removed from the liquid by using a cheese cloth. This solid mass is then put into a cheese mold and pressed in order to expel more moisture. The final step in this stage of the cheese production is salting. This can be done both by rubbing salt into the cheese, but also by submerging it and leaving it for a time in brine (that is salt water) solution.

Becoming Fontina

There are a few different methods and variables in obtaining cheese curd. However, the stage of cheesemaking which really gives its cheese its distinctiveness, is the ripening. This refers to the way the curd is treated once obtained, up until it is ready to be packaged and sold.

In the case of Fontina, the salted cheese curd is placed on Norway spruce wood selves and stored at high humidity and a lowish temperature. The key though to producing Fontina is the fact that the stored cheeses are turned and washed on the outside with salty water every other day.

This washing of the rind encourages the action of bacteria in the cheese which aid ripening. After three months, the inside of the cheese is semi-hard with a sweet, strong taste and small holes. The rind is smooth, thin and firm. It is actually edible, but some people prefer not to indulge. The classic characteristic of these washed rind cheeses is a strong smell (although don’t let that put you off!).

A fountain of Fontina

So in conclusion, Fontina is a classic Italian cheese, which preserves some of the best qualities of Alpine milk and literally flows on the plate due to its meltability.

Not quite the fountain of life (that is to be found elsewhere!), but a cheese worth trying nevertheless!